Tasting Late-Season Success

April 26th, 2011
Bow hunting world magazine article from bow hunting magazine bow hunting magazine

Bowhunting World Magazine, February 2010

You still have one more chance to fill your buck tag, but let’s face the facts. Arrowing a buck in the late season can be a tough assignment. To start with, there are fewer bucks available, and these survivor bucks are a lot smarter after a long deer season. And then there is the brutal cold temperatures to contend with. And if that is not enough, the hunter “burn out” factor can be demoralizing.

So how can you improve your odds? We asked three of the country’s leading bowhunters their secrets to success in the late season. Here is what they told us.

The Ayes Have It
Jeremiah Parker, marketing manager for Leaf River Outdoor Products, begins the late season by zeroing in on food sources such as late soybeans. “I am not as concerned with locating a big buck or two, but rather finding large concentrations of deer. The more deer there are feeding comfortably out in the open, the more likely a mature buck will appear during legal shooting hours. He will be seeking not only food, but maybe one more chance to breed.

“I then set up trail cameras all around the field in the hopes of photographing a racked deer. On one 3,000-acre lease I set out 25 to 30 trail cameras along the perimeter of 4- or 5-acre fields. You must do this as quickly and as scent-free as possible. I have the cameras pre-set, and don’t fiddle arid fidget around when positioning the cameras. I also wear rubber boots and spray myself down with a quality scent elimination spray. We know when someone breaks into our house; so do mature bucks!

“In addition I often set out mock scrapes in front of the camera,” says Parker, “and also legal scents and lures in order to increase my odds of a big buck sighting. Using cameras to ‘help scout your hunting turf is important, especially for guys and gals who only have a weekend or two to bowhunt the late season. In these cases, ‘trophy’ is in the eyes of the beholder. But if I am looking for an exceptional deer, and I know from my trail cameras that a big buck is frequenting a certain feeding area, then I will not take the first buck that shows himself, but rather hold off a bit. Those big mature bucks seem to always wait for the last minute before arriving at a field filled with does.”

Food Plots
Jay Gregory, pro staffer for Millennium Treestands and host of The Wild Outdoors television show, believes the late season actually starts in the summer. “Locating bucks in the late season can be a tough assignment. Food is the key, but natural food sources such as acorn flats, stands of pod-bearing locust, and wild apple orchards can spread deer around as can cut corn lots and harvested bean fields.

“It is much better to plant your own food plots. I like to have standing corn and standing bean fields as well as green plots of winter oats and brassicas available during the late season. Then when the regular deer season ends and winter rolls in, bucks will come to the food plots to replenish their fat supplies and maybe have one last sexual encounter. I hope for severe weather now as the deer will yard up around the food source. It is like hunting them in a smaller pond. It is a lot easier to know where they are going to be spending the majority of their time.

“We will use rattling horns and try calling to bucks that seem to be walking away from us, but we do so sparingly. Late season bucks are generally thinking more about food than sex, so we hunt them on a feeding pattern.

“Bowhunting the late season over a food plot is not without its risks,” adds Gregory. “There are generally a lot of deer in the immediate area, and they are still skittish from the gun season. You must exercise extreme caution erecting your treestand, and that stand must be both comfortable and quiet. Any fidgeting or metal-on-metal noise once you climb on board will also spook nearby deer. Keep in mind that the higher you climb, the more likely you are to be skylighted due to the lack of foliage.”

Mock Scrapes
“I am a believer of using scents to stir up deer in the late season,” says Kevin Kishel, president of Kishel’s Scents and Lures. “Bucks don’t stop being territorial, and over the years 1 have used mock scrapes to bring high-pressured bucks in for kill shots. Bucks, by the way, that have gone nocturnal or are holed up on posted property that I do not have access to.

“Typically I set out my mock scrapes near bedding areas and attend to them once a week to keep them fresh. Even when most bowhunters think the rut is over, racked bucks are still looking for hot does. I scrape the ground clean, and add interdigital and tarsal gland scents to the mock scrape and douse the licking branch with preorbital gland lure. Then I add some buck urine to the mix. I believe this calms them down and helps them feel a little bit safer knowing another buck is around. It is like adding frosting to a cake.

“You must be patient when bowhunting over a mock scrape,” adds Kishel. “Mature bucks have learned to adapt to hunting pressure. They will let a younger buck approach the mock scrape, using him like a guinea pig, before showing themselves. If you can hold off from shooting a yearling animal, your chances for a big buck will skyrocket.

“You must also be as stealthy as possible during the late season. In some cases bucks have been hunted hard for better than three months and are on high alert. This means you must pay close attention to the wind, practice scent control, and eliminate other errors, such as avoiding erecting squeaky treestands near known buck bedding areas, to be successful.”

THE DIRT HOLE SET – HOW TO MAKE A PRODUCTIVE SET

April 6th, 2011

Katch K9′s Kishel’s Style

The Dirt Hole Set

trapping coyote

Having traveled this great nation coast to coast, I would have to say that one of the most effective sets in a trapper’s “bag of tricks” for taking canines is what is called ‘The Dirt Hole Set.’

As we try to mimic the theory of that “dog that buried the bone,” The Dirt Hole Set, when presented correctly and in the right location can be deadly to K9′s and Cats.

Below, I illustrate exactly how it is done, my style. Despite all the variations to this set, I have found the most effective way to make this set work is to keep it simple.

Want to catch K9′s?

Try my technique!!
Kevin Kishel

finding a good site to trap a coyote

 

First find a suitable site location.

This varies from region to region, state to state.

Do some pre season scouting and line up as many areas that K9′s travel the most.

Get the odds in your favor trapping is a numbers game.

setting up the coyote lure

Set the Trap

Before I ever begin making a set, I like to set the trap and have it ready for bedding.

setting up a coyote trap

 

Equipment

Layout your needed equipment.

Pictured here is:

My 3 in 1 Trapping Trowel
Trapper bag with lure
Cable Stake Driver
Kneeling Pad
Sifter

 

preparing the trap

 

Prepare Trap Bed

Begin digging out the area to bed the trap.

I like to keep this bed the size of my trap and not much larger.

Keeping the dirt pattern small makes K9′s less suspicious when working the set.

 

Setting up a stake trap for a coyote

 

Stake Trap

Attach trap to staking system and drive into ground.

I prefer using our cable stakes – they have maximum holding power.

 

setting up a dirt hol set

Trap Bedding

Begin bedding your trap.

Be absolutely sure the trap is rock solid and does not move under the dirt.

Pack dirt solid around trap to keep it from movement.

Any movement that a K9 feels under his foot will make him leave.

Spend your time bedding that trap!

Trap Positioning

The positioning of the trap is extremely important in relation to the placement of the hole.

I like to determine my placement of the hole after my trap has been bedded.

Pictured here the re-rod stake is showing the hole position with my trap placed about 8-10″ back from the hole and slightly off center about 2 ½ “.

Hole is dug at about a 45° angle towards the trap.

Kevin Kishel setting up a canine trap  re rod stake

Covering the Trap

Begin sifting the dirt over the entire trap area.

Dirt hole trap Dirt hole trap Dirt hole trap

Crossbreed Lure Applied to dirt hole set

 

Apply Attractants

Finish your set off by placing Lure, Baits or Urines and/or a combination of them all on the backing and down into the hole.

Pictured here is our deadly
Crossbreed Call Lure.

Deadly on K9′s and Cats.

trapped coyote

Results

Some Additional Pictures

dirt hole set

Finished Set
** Note Hole Size **
Keep the hole small, no more that a 1½” in diameter.
K9′s work the set better.

Dirt hol trap on game trail

Set Location
Dirt hole blended in near game trail, excellent location.

Katch K9′s Kishel’s Style

The Finished Dirt Hole

 

dirt hole set

Cable Stake System

April 5th, 2011

Maximum Holding Power

Field Tested – Versatile – Light Weight

Kevin Kishel with trapped Coyote

For those of you not familiar with our Cable Staking System, the following is a step by step instructional for your education.

Unlike conventional re-rod or wood/plastic stakes, our cable stakes are durable, light weight anchoring devices for all kinds of outdoor use.

Your choice when maximum holding power is needed. Hunters, Trappers, Campers and Dog Trainers use them just about anywhere for a solid anchoring system.

Finding the Trap Location

Step 1)

 

Find a suitable trap site location or area.

Setting a trap

Step 2)

 

Prepare the trap bedding and attach the cable stake to the trap.

Step 3)

 

Insert the cable driver end into the cable stake and prepare to drive the cable stake into the ground.

Setting up a cable stake k9 trap driving in the cable stake

hammering the stake in

 

Step 4)

 

Begin to hammer the cable stake into the ground.

Step 5)

 

Hammer the cable stake down into the ground just until the top of the cable stake loop is above the ground.

Note: In heavy soils or rocky ground you do not have to drive the cable stake totally into the ground.

Many times you only have to only drive the cable stake half way into the ground, depending greatly on the soil type.

Then, just twist and lift to remove the driver.

Be sure to tug from your trap chain to lock the stake into the ground.

Cable stake driver k9 trap

finishing off the set

 

Step 6)

 

Finish off your set.

Apply Lures Apply trapping lures

Step 7)

 

Apply Lure and Get the Results!

Kishel’s Cable Stake System

Maximum Holding Power

 

k9 trap successful coyote trapping

Go to our Shop On Line page to purchase our cast bullet point stakes and heavy duty stake driver

Kishel's cable stakes and driver

Making a Mock Scrape

April 4th, 2011

How to Make a Mock Scrape

Kishel’s Mock Scrape Kit
True Odor Gland Scent Communicators
Simple – Quick – Effective

wear rubber gloves to make scrape

First and foremost – Use a quality Cover Scent, Scent Eliminator, Body Wash and Clothes Wash before entering the woods.

Second – Take along a pair of rubber gloves to apply the scent to the mock scrape.

Third – Wear your rubber boots into the woods.

This should be your minimum requirements any time your are entering the woods to make a mock scrape, to scout or to set up your tree stand.

fining a good location for scrape

Step 1)

Find a suitable site location or area to make your Mock Scrape.

This could be a well used deer trail (as Kevin Kishel shows you), a funnel that deer are using, a trail from the woods into their favorite corn field, etc.

Look for a tree near the trail with an over hanging branch, about 4 to 6 feet, above the ground in which you can make a mock scrape under.

Your pre season scouting should help you determine where to make your mock scrape.

Step 2)

Bring along your Kishel’s Mock Scrape Kit.
This kit includes Pre Orbital, Interdigital and Tarsal Musk.

Kevin is showing you that you can carry in your own dirt or use the dirt at the site.

Kishels mock scrape kit Dirt for the mock scrape
Creating the mock scrape Creating the mock scrape

Step 3)

Distribute the dirt in a circle about 2 feet in diameter.

Move the dirt around with a stick from the woods to imitate a scrape that a deer has made.

If you are making the scrape from the area – take a strong stick and rough up the area down to the dirt, removing the leaves – move the dirt around to imitate a deer’s scrape.

Step 4)

Applying the Tarsal Musk.

Remove the cap on the Tarsal Musk Gland Scent and apply 4 to 6 squirts inside the scrape.

(Refresh your scrape every 4 to 7 days)

Apply Tarsal Musk to mock scrape Tarsal Musk

Step 5)

Applying the Interdigital.

Remove the cap on the Interdigital Gland Scent and apply 1 to 2 squirts inside the scrape.

(Refresh your scrape every 4 to 7 days)

Applying Interdigital scent Applying interdigital gland scent Spraying the scrape

Step 6)

Applying the Pre Orbital.

Remove the cap on the Pre Orbital Gland Scent and apply 1 to 2 squirts onto an overhanging branch above the scrape.

(Refresh your scrape every 4 to 7 days)

reorbital gland scent Spraying Preorbital gland scent on tree Preorbital spray

The location of the mock scrape

Step 7)

Once again – Along this trail is where Kevin chose to make his Mock Scrape.

The scrape is across from him and to the right of the trail (not on the trail.)

As you can see he did not disturb the trail and he will not walk out of the woods on the deer trail when he leaves the area.

A successful mock scrape

“Kishel’s Mock Scrape Kit – Result Proven Products”

This is the buck that Kevin Kishel took 
from the Mock Scrape that he made.

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